It’s a simple dish and you’ll find it at a small, cozy spot on East Colfax where the staff is friendly and upbeat — and patiently allows you to take your basic Spanish as far as it will go, never condescending to answer in English unless you’re at the limit of your comprehension.
The platano con carne arrives at your table, unadorned on a plain white porcelain plate, without garnish or distraction. Just a caramelized banana-looking thing stuffed full of warmth and goodness, topped with crumbly cotija.
The real question is whether you split the plantain crosswise into equal parts or if you and your companion work your way in from the ends, Lady and the Tramp style.
As much as I love the romance of meeting in the middle, I prefer to save the crispy tips for last.
I was going to say how each slice from the plantain exposes strata of banana, spiced ground beef, tomato sauce, and cheese, but it’s not actually the case — it’s all pretty squishy and your little knife isn’t sharp enough to cut pristine, sushi roll-style cross sections. And that’s a good thing because every bite is a mushy mélange of savory and sweet, with maybe a hint of caramel crunch. It’s full of classic Latin American flavors, hearty with a light touch of brightness, unique while still tasting like comfort food.
And the platano is the perfect start to your journey through El Tamarindo’s expansive menu of Central American foods. You can frolic through their array of hand-held pupusas, garnachas, pastelitos, and bailadas, or dabble in those dishes before ordering a gut-busting entrée or two.
The whole experience is homey and familial, an invitation to enjoy cultural touchstones served without fuss or fanfare.
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